Today was a great day. I celebrated Zambia's 49th Independence Day. I enjoyed bread and sugary coffee with my agogo (grandma) and sisters. It was a real treat. It's funny how something as common as bread and sweet coffee in the states are luxury foods here.
After a relaxing afternoon, I went with my.sisters to the village center where there's little shops and people had gathered. They brought out a chair they insisted I sit in. I couldnt help but notice I was the only one with a chair and the only white person in probably 200 people. As I thought about if they were indulging me in white priviledge, the kids started playing with ny hair, and the women came to say hello and tease me like always. I think zambians are just super kind and generous, and they want me as a visitor to be comfortable and enjoy myself. I think if I was a black American I would still receive special treatment as a guest.
There was lots of drumming and eventually a Chinao (i most definitely spelled that wrong but its pronounced chi-now) came out. He wore a straw skirt and his feet were wrapped, and he had on a big mask made of chicken.feathers that had a small face about 6 inches big. He started dancing, kicking up sand, throwing himself on the dirt, with lots of hip thrusting. The dancers would come and go and the crowd, including myself, loved it. I'm not sure the history or story of the Chinao but it's unusual for Zambian men to not wear a shirt and even shorts so the Chinao must be considerd very special with their exposed bodies, faces covered, and intricate dancing.
After a while a drunk man started a.fight with one of the Chinao dancers. My sister Dailess (8 years old) grabbed my hand and pulled me away from the front of the crowd. I wasn't even aware a fight was starting, and I still don't know why, because my language skills are still a work in progress. I'm so used to a fight brig goaded on by the crowd, everyone crowding around to watch and cheer. I was completely surprised how most people moved away from it and the men near by broke it up within probably the first minute it started. Drunks will cause trouble in any place, but I'm.grateful to live in a country that really looks down on fighting, who value peace, and is proud of their culture. After a.few minutes a man on a motorcycle took the drunk home and we all gathered back to watch more dancing.
There was another Chinao man who wore a bag on his face and short shorts and had his entire body painted red. He came out and everyone ran from.him.and he chased someone down the street before coming back.
The finale concluded with a Chinao man on stilts who had a straw skirt and a bag wrapped over his face coming out and dancing. I was utterly impressed. Also there was more dancing from the first Chinao man and a woman who held two branches and also had her face covered with a bag. The crowd donated money to them and as it got dark, my atate (dad) gathered his 10 kids who were there and we came home for a delicious and special dinner of nsima, fish, and rape with pounded peanuts.
Its hard to really describe the dancers but I took so many pictures and video I completely filled an SD card. I'll upload them probably in late November.
